South Korea

From Monday, May 18th to Monday, May 25th, from Busan to Noryang-Ri.

The ferry crossing

On Monday, May 18th, we left Japan by ferry to South Korea. In Japan, the rules are strict: you must arrive at least 3 hours before boarding. And since the ferry doesn’t wait, you have to anticipate any mechanical problems that might arise.
The crossing of the Sea of ​​Japan took place under sunny skies and on a calm sea. We docked in the port of Busan in the late afternoon. However, as customs formalities took a long time, we didn’t get our bikes until late, forcing us to ride after dark. Cycling in these conditions, especially when you’re unfamiliar with the country, is always a tricky business.

Busan is a pleasant and touristy city

Busan is a popular tourist destination in Korea; it’s the country’s second-largest city with 3.5 million inhabitants. We chose to stay there for several days to explore its main attractions. It’s also the world’s seventh-largest port and the country’s largest.

The fish market

In Korea, fish is a staple food, eaten raw or cooked. Koreans eat a lot of fish, as meat is a much more expensive dish.

As in many Asian cities, fish markets are a major attraction. Jagalchi Market in Busan is the largest in Korea. It covers an impressive area, partly covered and partly open-air. All kinds of fish and seafood are sold there. The stench is so overpowering that you won’t want to eat seafood or fish after visiting.

The stalls at Jagalchi market are run by women known as “Ajummas.” This term refers to women of mature age, between 40 and 60, or even older. They are not simply vendors but true icons of the city.

On the first floor of the covered market, there are dozens of restaurants. They all offer the same menus at identical prices. There is no competition.

Gamcheon cultural village

We will visit the popular neighborhood called Gamcheon Culture Village. It’s a former shantytown nicknamed Machu Picchu, a nickname related to its location. It’s built on a mountainside. A neighborhood popular with tourists for its colorful roofed houses, street art decorations, and a famous statue of the Little Prince, the hero of Saint-Exupéry’s novel.

Like Japan, South Korea is full of temples. We took the opportunity to visit Haedong Yonggungsa Temple, which is located by the sea. This is a rare location, as temples are usually found in isolated mountain areas. This particular temple is dedicated to the goddess of the sea.

A beautiful temple without tourists

On Friday, we left Busan, always a difficult task because in Asia cities sprawl for kilometers. Busan’s unique feature is that it’s located in a basin, and we had to climb short but steep hills, which often forced us to get off and push our bikes.

On Saturday the 23rd, we drove along the Sea of ​​Japan before taking some mountain roads. At the top of a long climb, we discovered the magnificent Daegwangsa Temple, and to top it all off, we were the only visitors. The monks were busy putting up the decorations because the next day was the festival celebrating Buddha’s birth. The date changes each year according to the Chinese calendar.

The end of the day is spent by the sea. On the way, we stop at a Protestant church to listen to the hymns. We’re staying in Baedun-Ri at Eve’s place. She runs an old motel that she’d like to sell, but given the state of the building, perhaps it would be better to demolish it.

A charming person

Sunday the 24th, after a quiet day, we arrived in Jinjuseong. We met a charming lady, whose name we’ve forgotten. She runs the hotel where we’ll be staying.

She is very kind and will spend the afternoon accompanying us on a tour of the city fortress and the Gangygeolsa Temple. It’s Buddha’s birthday, and the site has been decorated for the occasion. We have access to areas of the temple usually reserved for worshippers.

This Monday we say goodbye to the hotel owner. She’s so sad she has tears in her eyes. Just another ordinary day of transition, sleeping on Noryang-Ri Island in a motel overlooking the sea.

Met :

• A young French couple, Héléna and Corentin, who are travelling by bus for 8 months
• Paul, an Australian, is cycling alone for 7 weeks in Korea. His wife has returned to Australia because she had a cycling accident.
• A Korean couple who offered us sushi and rice cakes
• Two Koreans, Minjun and Yeogguk, wanted to chat with us. They offered us cakes and energy drinks.
• An unusual encounter: a Korean man stopped and gave us money to pay for our meal.

Some information about Korea: A country five times smaller than France but with 51 million inhabitants. The currency used is the Won (1775 won to 1 euro). The only border with the country is with North Korea; it has been closed and impassable since 1953, the end of the Korean War. Seoul, which we will discuss later, is the capital. South Korea has the lowest fertility rate in the world, less than 0.7. (France, also experiencing a decline, has a rate of 1.52). This demographic crisis threatens the future of Korea, the 14th largest economy in the world.

Did you know: In Korea, 50% of the population has no religious affiliation, with Protestantism (22%), Buddhism (17%) and Catholicism (11%).

Route: We covered 284km between May 18th and 25th. Find the route map by clicking HERE