Kyrgyzstan and its sometimes dangerous roads

From July 6 to 12 from Kazarman to Balykchy

A very beautiful road but sometimes dangerous

On July 6th, we arrive in Kazarman, a town that doesn’t offer much charm. It’s lost in the middle of nowhere in the mountains of Kyrgyzstan. Its buildings are very old. Most of the hotels here are entirely privatized by the Chinese, who are building a railway line that will run from China to Kyrgyzstan, with the ultimate goal of easily transporting goods to the west. It’s hot, the streets are dusty. Lacking space to sleep, we meet someone who offers us a yurt for a small fee.

After a night in our yurt, we set off at dawn. For two days, we’ll cross the magnificent Kokomeren Valley along the Jumgal River. This place is one of the most beautiful in the country. The road was built by the Chinese, but they haven’t cleared the mountain, and there are many landslides. We often have to zigzag to avoid the stones that have fallen on the road. Clearing machines are everywhere, trying to clear the rocks. The setting is splendid, and the road is very hilly; it’s a sparsely populated area.

A very brave grocer

After this first day, which was long and difficult for the legs, as the terrain is so uneven. We camped in Ornok near a small grocery store open 24/7 by a single person, eh! yes, it’s strange. After a night that wasn’t so peaceful, because there were 10 people who came to wake the grocer. We left at dawn because the heat was still present

On July 8th, still in the same valley, our day ends in Chaek. A bustling town where we have the impression there are only banks, quite impressive.

A rather original restaurant and a small sauna

Our journey continues over the next few days on a flatter road. We camp in the garden of a guesthouse in Kysart on July 9th.

We have lunch at the top of a pass where the only, rather unusual menu offers smoked trout or herring and hard-boiled eggs. The setting is picturesque and original.

We end our last day before the town of Epkin in a house where we are welcomed by two young teenagers. It’s an unusual end to the day for two reasons: the shower is also a coal-heated sauna, and the family meal is very local, with products whose names are difficult to remember.

A difficult life on the mountainside

On July 11, the last day before the town of Balykchy, we crossed a valley inhabited by the nomadic Kyrgyz population who live on the mountainside, but it must be a difficult life. A new landslide on the road forces us to take a 45km detour on a high-altitude road. We finally reached Balykchy late in the evening, where we took the opportunity to visit the town. The place is a tourist attraction due to the presence of Lake Lessik.
A beautiful, lively town with its beach, bazaar and smoked fish vendors.

Encounter :

• Adar shows us his electric motorcycle, insisting that it is Chinese.

• A French couple whose name we have forgotten but who, seeing our flag, stopped for a bit of a chat.
• Donkeys are everywhere on the roads and are often used as means of transport.

Our Route:

From July 6th to 12th, we covered 364 km on the roads of Kyrgyzstan. Find our map in the blog or by clicking on this link.

Did you know: Lake Lessik is the second largest lake in the world after Lake Titicaca, reaching an altitude of 1,650 meters. It has a surface area equivalent to Corsica. It never freezes because it is slightly salty.

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