Iran a welcoming country
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Bulletin No. 14
To Wednesday August 10 to Sunday September 4, from Tabriz to Tehran
A cultural shock and discovery of the city of Tabriz
After a week in Iran, we got used to life in the countryside. The culture shock was great. Iran as a host country is truly a reality. On the street we are surrounded by very relaxed people who live without haste and are always ready to help.
In Tabriz, a city located in the northwest of the country, we passed through the grand bazaar. As always in these places there are a lot of people and everything is sold. Each department specializes in an item, if it is the one where jewelry is sold you will not find anything else there.
We also discover the mosques, these buildings generally covered with blue and turquoise earthenware. As the city is located in a seismic zone, many historic buildings still bear the scars of earthquakes, such as the Blue Mosque which has lost some of its colors.
A path to the Caspian Sea
On Friday August 12, we left Tabriz, heading towards the Caspian Sea. Quite a difficult start, we have to overcome a small climb of 41 km. After three days of crossing desert areas, we arrive in Ardabil. In these less touristy places, the welcome is wonderful, the population is constantly worried about whether we need anything and, as always, wants to offer you something to eat or drink… The city is home to the mausoleum of Sultan Sheikh Safi ad-Din. The place is beautiful and there is also beautiful porcelain.
The Caspian Sea
Tuesday August 16, before reaching the edge of the Caspian Sea. We go down the valley which takes us to Astara, 2500m of negative altitude difference over 40 km. A fairly dizzying descent in a magnificent setting. Overloaded trucks descend slowly because the slope is steep. We are in a temperate zone and the greenery is abundant, in winter the snow covers the mountain and the Iranians come to ski there. At the end of the descent we finally discover the Caspian Sea and the city of Astara.
For a week we cycled along its coasts. We met mainly Iranian tourists and a few Iraqis, no European tourists. The only attraction of this place is the sea. When we arrive at small hotels, we are always received warmly and sometimes like VIPs and we benefit from the best services. It’s a pleasant but sometimes disturbing situation. For example, at a small hotel called Gilaria, the owner took us around the area by car and offered us food. With these small gestures, we can definitely say “Iran is a welcoming country.”
The Chaloos Valley, an incredible location
After five days we reached the valley of Chaloos. We will have to pass a pass located at 2700m, with a climb of 80km, in this valley we will face something incredible. In Iran it happens that when traffic is too heavy on a two-way road, the authorities decide to make it one-way for a few hours. As we had been driving on this two-way road for more than 25 km and without being warned, it turned one-way and we found ourselves facing an avalanche of cars. In addition to our fear, we had to walk on the side of the road for several kilometers to avoid the accident. Finally, it will take us two days to reach the high pass.
Tehran
Saturday August 27, we arrive in Tehran. A city with immense avenues, crazy traffic with vehicles leaving everywhere to the sound of deafening horns. We cover 40 km in Tehran, alternating between roads and sidewalks where motorbikes also circulate. We discover a rather unusual city, an incessant flow of cars and motorbikes and an unimaginable number of taxis. A few minutes later and you have your official or unofficial taxi.
A city always on the move with indescribable commercial activity.
We settle into a youth hostel while waiting for our flight to France.
The metro is a fast and cheap means of transport. We will visit the old town of Darbanb located in the mountains, a very touristy place. The Imam Zadeh Saleh Mosque, as always in turquoise blue colors and with a very neat interior. The Golestan Palace and of course the Grand Bazaar, a must-see. A 10 km2 covered market in the heart of the city. You can find everything there, even the unthinkable. A human anthill where hundreds of young adolescents are busy transporting goods in small carts.
Did you know
The Caspian Sea is a closed sea that provides access to 5 countries. Azerbaijan, Russia, Kazakhstan, Turkmenistan and Iran. Its level has fallen by 1.5 m in 20 years and has fallen by around 200 m.
Meetings and some faces
Iran, the host country, is necessarily a place where we gather a lot.
We met a German cyclist Freech, he travels without a destination or defined particularity without a phone. A traveler that we listen to with admiration.
Alexandro, owner of the Aseman Hotel in Kelachay. He was a diplomat for Iran for 30 years.
The team at Pizzeria Melli in Ardabil who offered us a pizza. It was without a doubt the best we ate in Iran.
The Guilaria Hotel team
Where are we
During these 21 days we covered 961km. You can see the final route on the map below.
End of trip
After 31 days in Iran and 5 months on the road, our 2022 trip ends in Tehran. Will we return there one day? Perhaps to discover the end of the Silk Road which reaches China. We will have to wait for the response.
